NATURE really is the best artist in Kerala. On a recent luxury holiday with a friend, this states beautiful panorama captivated me.
First came Varkala, along the southern coast. Here we received blissful massages at a beach resort, while taking in the dramatic views of laterite cliffs and blue- seas fringed with palms. From there we moved onto the verdant Thekkady, encountering unseasonal rains, more shades of green than I have ever seen, and mist rolling into our room. The downside was that the animals hid out in the jungle during our boat safari at the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, so we only spotted the occasional elephant, sambhar, buffalo, and wild boar. But the lush surrounds, the birds galore and the chilly hill- station feel more than made up for our lack of tiger sightings.
Kumarakom was next, and words dont do justice to the experience. We stayed one night on a houseboat or a kettuvallom; a wooden construction with a thatched roof and an upper deck that is perfect for a meal under the stars (and/ or sunbathing!). The boat made its way gently around the still, mirror- like blue waters of the Vembanad Lake.
Along the shoreline we saw whitewashed churches and quaint villages. When the rains set in, turning the day wet and grey, the gloom just seemed to enhance our spectacular surroundings. Then came night, with its sounds of night- birds and a chorus of crickets. To the east we saw an almost full moon high in the star- studded heavens; far in the distance, brilliant bolts of lightning, and then, slowly, the flickering lanterns of the fishing boats coming on.
A magical display of nature – of sun, moon, stars, heaven, earth, water and fire playing all the lead roles. We did not take the weather with us to Cochin, our last destination ( although the sky did have an ominous hue to it), or we might have missed another Kerala postcard view – the Chinese fishing nets set alight by the flaming sky at sunset. Our sunset cruise along the backwaters ensured us of a perfect photo- op, as did our strategically located hotel on Willington Harbour.
In Cochin, I actually did the touristy bit ( while my friend opted to lounge by the pool). A visit to the historical sites in Mattencherry and Fort Kochi ensued, followed by a visit to the Jewish Quarters and the synagogue. Not far from there lay yet another treat for me – the much famed Jewish flea market. I love rummaging through antique stores and flea markets and when I chance upon a find, especially in a decrepit, out- of- theway antique store, Im thrilled.
The figurines of Indian gods, miniature gilded paintings of Jesus and the apostles, well- worn wooden household objects, hand- painted tiles, glass lanterns, 4- poster beds even… there was enough to keep me pottering around for hours despite the mid- day heat. Thankfully I was scheduled for yet another massage and an Ayurvedic facial ( I take my pampering very seriously) – else who knows what I would’ve lugged back home?
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